Splitting Embroidery Designs
There’s a lot to consider when splitting a large design to be embroidered. Not only must you split it first in your software, but then you have to figure out how to line up each section so that when you stitch out your design, they line up properly. Make sure that you save your block as Master Block (and it’s name) before proceeding.
Click for larger viewIn these 2 pictures, I have assembled my block, which consists of 9 motifs that I’ve grouped to form a single motif. This motif is much larger than my embroidery hoop.
For this pictorial, I will be using the Bernina Mega Hoop, but it can also be done in the large oval hoop as well, it would simply require more splittings using the same methods.
Click for larger viewIf you can imagine laying 3 Mega Hoops on top of this design, the two side hoops would overlap the center hoop. It’s in that overlapped section that you will add reference marks. In this example, I’ve digitized 4 “T“‘s (closeup in the top picture, and circled in red in the 2nd picture). Make sure to choose a color that isn’t in your design, I used red so that it showed up easily on the back side. You could also digitize a straight line on each side, or a box, purely a matter of preference. Make sure to change the stitch length on your digitized reference points so that it’s easily removable! 7mm works well. Using the color film, drag the the color that you chose for the reference squares to the bottom of the color film, so that the reference points stitch out last.
After adding your reference marks, you are ready to split the block. We’ll begin with the Center block since it 
Click for larger view
will be the first to be stitched out. Start by selecting the motifs along the side, one at a time, and deleting them, leaving the 4 reference marks, circled in red here so you can see them. When you have the 3 remaining center motifs left, stop and do a “Save as” and name this Center Block (whatever).
Now we’ll do the Side Block. Some people find it easier at this point to close the Center block and re-open the Master block, but I simply use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+Z to re-insert my deleted motifs for one side. Once I have the 3 motifs back on one side, I delete the center motifs, and the 2 reference boxes on the opposite side. This time, move the “Red T’s” that you used as reference marks to the top of the color film, so that they stitch out first.
Click for larger view
Save this as Side block (whatever). Since the designs on this block are the same on both sides, you only need one side block. You’ll flip your fabric to sew it the opposite direction. If your designs were different, you would follow the same steps for each side, and name them Right side and Left side.
This is where it gets fun! You’re ready to stitch out the Center block. You should 
Click for larger viewhave your fabric block already marked with reference lines. I use a Clover Thick water soluble marking pen. I have used this on countless fabrics and it removes quite easily. You will want lines drawn both in a center cross, as well as on the diagonal.
Hoop sticky stabilizer in your hoop and attach it to your embroidery module. Load the design, and find the center position. Now lay your block on top of the hoop, and match the center of your marked reference lines with the center needle position. I then match the vertical reference line to the markings on my hoop template.
Click for larger viewUsing the basting motif or function of your machine, baste your block into the hoop. Make sure that your hoop is centered to your Center X lines.
Center block stitched out with reference “T” lines versus squares in this sample.
Click for larger view After trying Squares, Straight Lines and finally “T“‘s as reference marks, I have found that for me anyway, the “T“‘s are the easiest to line up and give me the most accurate results.
Time for the Side block, and how to make it magically line up! You are going to stitch the digitized reference marks that you left in your Side block directly onto the hooped sticky stablizer. This will allow you to align the back side of the Center block’s 
Click for larger viewreference marks to the reference marks for the Side block that you stitched onto the sticky stabilizer.
I’ve removed the hoop from the machine and am lining up my red “T“‘s here. Once I 
Click for larger view
have both of them lined up, I press my fabric onto the stabilizer. I find with the sticky stabilizer, that is enough to hold it. However, you can place a pin in it for more support if you feel it needs it.
Click for larger viewThen just press the fabric block onto the stabilizer, remove the pins if you used them, and place it back on the machine. Here’s the fabric block pressed onto the stabilizer, ready to be placed back on the machine. The only “nudging” you should have to do at this point is to make sure the center point of the design on your screen lands exacly on your center line you drew on the fabric with the water soluable marker. This is the area it will be most noticible if you’re off slightly, so don’t skip this step. If you have to “nudge” your hoop position, don’t 
Click for larger viewforget to run the hoop check to make certain your design still fits into the hoop.
Once you’re all lined up, it’s time again to baste this side of your fabric into the hoop. Load your basting stitch
design and baste your fabric, and then you are ready to stitch 
Click for larger viewyour side block.
You’ve done it! You’re now a professional design splitter extraordinaire! Hey, If I can do this, ANYONE can do this.
